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Our friends John and Amanda are sailing the world on the s/v Gingi. They left us here in Newport last fall, wintered in Mexico, and started the trans-Pacific in March. It's a fascinating voyage! For some pics click here:
For a blog of a companion vessels click here:
Here's the report they just sent in after finally making it back to land:
The Marquesas Islands Position: 9° 42.841'S, 139° 00.910'W
Hi, this is the first opportunity we have had to get on line, so apologies for the delay in writing and for writing to everyone at the same time. Hope you weren't worried about us. We are now on an island named Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas and we have internet access. Anyway, here's a recap of our past month!!
We started out from Cabo on March 15th on our 2,600-miles passage with reinforced winds from the gale in California – 20 knots of wind and 8-12' seas. We arrived in Hiva Oa island in the Marquesas on April 10th after 26 days at sea from Cabo San Lucas. It was an arduous 26 days at sea. It wasn't the perfect sailing conditions that we had always expected for this crossing – however, we did have two or three very pleasant days with almost flat seas and the trade winds at 15 knots. Memorable moments of our passage:
Going through the ITCZ (inter-tropical convergence zone) which means squalls, 30-knot gusts of wind and thunderstorms. It took us two days to pass through the ITCZ and then we arrived in the doldrums.
The night a flying fish hit Amanda in the chest as she came out into the cockpit to take her watch. It was attracted by her flashlight!
Finding flying fish and squid on the deck nearly every morning.
John having to raise himself up the mast twice while the boat is yawing to release reefing lines that had got caught in the spreaders (something that has never happened before in the nine years we've been cruising!). Very scary to see him swinging on the outside of our lifelines.
Crossing the equator on April 2nd and seeing the GPS change from latitude degrees north to south.
Beautiful cloudless starry nights.
Passing no more than 15 yards away from two sleeping whales.
We traveled not more than two miles away from another boat for the entire trip, s/v Wind Dancer, a family from Juneau, Alaska. Everyone said it couldn't be done, but we did it. It took some effort as we sail at different speeds, but by adjusting sails, we accomplished it. To travel that distance, it was definitely a secure feeling to have another boat nearby in case of emergency. In the entire trip we only encountered two ships
At dawn on April 10th we saw the most beautiful sight – land!!! We arrived in a gorgeous bay, named Hanaiapa on Hiva Oa Island. Two other boats we know, who we left with on March 15th, were anchored there. What a sight to see hillsides covered in palm trees and luscious greenery, hearing the goats bleating as they climbed the hillsides, and a native of the island coming out to greet us in his outrigger. We anchored, exhausted, bruised but so excited to be here. Within two hours we were ashore. The first few seconds on land were strange. We both felt dizzy and had to get our balance! Rio, a native of the island greeted us. The Marquesas are French so he speaks French and Amanda was able to interpret for all of us. Rio took us on the most amazing walk. Every few yards we were tasting fruits that were growing on our path – grapefruit (pamplemousse), guava, nuts, papaya, mango, soursop, star fruit, cider apples, coconut, bananas. It is so lush and the air is fragrant. Extremely humid. We thanked Rio for his hospitality, and he said, no, he thanked us for visiting his village. There are 96 inhabitants of Hanaiapa and they receive a subsidy from the French government to live here. There is an elementary school on the island and kids of high school age go to school in the larger towns and return home for the weekends. The men all have tattoos on their chests and the women wear flowers in their hair. We returned to the boat laden with fruit that we had traded for canned food. Our first night of sleep at anchor was so wonderful. The first time we had both been able to sleep at the same time. Even though the anchorage is not still – there is constant swell coming in – we are used to it after being at sea for so long.
We've spent the last few days making repairs to the boat, handwashing our laundry, and then snorkeling or taking walks in the village. On our second afternoon we were walking with Rio and he invited us to watch a traditional music and dance group rehearsal at the Catholic church. It was so moving to watch. The women's beautiful dance movements – the way they move their hands, and the complete opposite style that the men dance – with their fists clenched, jumping with both legs bent and apart and rigid. It was quite an emotional experience for us to be there. After the show, Rio gave each boat a frozen leg of goat to take back with us!!! We made a wonderful goat curry the following day. We feel guilty now when we see those cute goats climbing on the hillside around us.
On Saturday, the supply ship, which is also a cruise ship, arrived on its bi-monthly visit. It's 200' long and it anchored close to us and almost swung into our stern. John was sitting in the cockpit as it nearly hit us. The ship stops to let the thirty or so passengers walk around the village, but also to pick up copra (dried coconut) that is the main income of the island. They take the copra to Tahiti where it is used for making many things, including lotions, shampoo, etc. Anyway, later in the day we had a call on the VHF radio from the owner of the ship, Jules Wong – he asked us if we had sailed from San Francisco and he just wanted to chat with us.
We probably won't have much opportunity to email in the next few months. In French Polynesia there are only three places where we can access WiFi and we will email when we can. It's about $10 an hour and very slow! So please don't think we've forgotten you all.
Lots of love from John and Amanda
